Where to eat and drink in Madonna di Campiglio: slow lunches, a snowcat to dinner
Long lunches on the mountain, dinner in the village or out on the valley road. Malga Ritorto is the hut to go up to by snowcat in the evening, Alfiero is the small room to book before you travel, Speck Stube Alimonta is game and craft beer for an earlier night, and Bar Suisse is coffee and cake with the Habsburg story.
Campiglio eats the Italian way, which means lunch is not a refuel. Up the mountain the rifugi and malghe do fresh pasta, polenta, local meat and cheese, and the point is a long sit on a terrace. Dinner is mostly in the village, with some good tables out along the valley, so where you are staying decides how far you go.
For lunch with children or a big group, Prà Rodont on the Pinzolo side is the easy one: a self service for a quick stop, a proper room at the back, and Pia, who runs it and is good with both. Malga Ritorto does canederli in the daytime, but the evening is the reason to know it: up by snowcat to a set local menu, risotto or strangolapreti before the brasato, and the Brenta filling the view.
Alfiero is the dinner to book before you travel, a small room in the village that fills as soon as the door opens. The cover brings a prosecco, a small starter and a dessert wine to finish, which is how a cover should work. For a change of pace, Speck Stube Alimonta is game and craft beer six kilometres out in Sant'Antonio di Mavignola, and its kitchen opens early for Italy, which helps with children in tow. You need the ski bus or a car.
Apres here is aperitivo, a good drink as the light goes rather than a dance in ski boots. Chalet Rosa Alpina is a slopeside bar with live music over the link on the Folgarida side, so it suits the end of a day spent over there. In the centre, Bar Suisse is the oldest bar there, at its best over breakfast or with cake in the afternoon. Book the village dinners ahead, Alfiero first of all.
Mountain lunch
Self service and a proper room under one roof on the Pinzolo side, good with children and big groups, and a malga worth the snowcat up in the evening.
Rifugio Malga Ritorto
The evening is the version to book. A snowcat takes you up, and then it is a fixed local menu: a cold cut and cheese board, then a choice of mushroom risotto or strangolapreti, then brasato with polenta. The Brenta range is right in front of you and people call it the best view of it anywhere. Canederli in the daytime.
Ristorante Bar Prà Rodont
Two operations under one roof, a self service buffet for a quick stop and a table service restaurant at the back. Pia runs it and gets named by two people, both for how she handles children and large groups, one of them a ski school of fifty seven over a week. Venison pappardelle and good boards, with a Trentino wine list, and it is cheap for the mountain.
Dinner
A small village room that fills fast, and game with craft beer out on the valley road, where the kitchen starts early.
Ristorante Alfiero
A small room that fills the moment it opens, so book in advance. There is a four euro cover and it buys you a welcome prosecco, bread and butter, a small starter and a dessert wine at the end, which is the right way round. Pumpkin flan with gorgonzola, beef carpaccio and the beef cheeks are the orders, and the portions are generous for the bracket.
Ristorante Speck Stube Alimonta
Game is the strength, deer chops or a daily special of deer steak, both with polenta. The kitchen opens around half six, which is early for Italy and genuinely useful in a resort where most start late. Craft beer is a real draw. It is six kilometres out on the valley road, so it needs the ski bus or a car, and there is parking.
Bars
Live music and a bombardino on the slopes, over the link on the Folgarida side rather than in Campiglio.
Chalet Rosa Alpina Apreski
A slopeside apres bar with live music, over on the Folgarida side of the link rather than in Campiglio itself. Bombardino and the Aperol Spritz are what people order, and the chocolate cake is the standout. Fries, sandwiches and hot meals too, plus meat and cheese platters, and it is cheap for somewhere on the mountain.
Cafes and quick bites
Breakfast, or coffee and chocolate cake in the afternoon, in the oldest bar in the centre.
Bar Suisse
The oldest and most traditional bar in the centre, and the one that carries the Habsburg thread the resort trades on. Best used for breakfast or an afternoon coffee and cake rather than a booked meal. Family run, with the chocolate cake and the coffee named. A cosy wood furnished room with live music and a terrace.
These are our own picks, not paid placements. Opening times and ownership change, so it is always worth checking before you set off.