Where to eat and drink in Chamonix: glacier lunches, town dinners

Chamonix eats like the town it is. People live here all year, so the restaurants are proper ones, and the range runs from Savoyard rooms to small sharing plates and a cafe that roasts its own coffee. The ski areas are separate, so lunch depends on which hill you are on that day. Dinner is in town, or a train ride up the valley.

On the Grands Montets, Chalet Refuge de Lognan is the lunch with the view, straight out over the Glacier d'Argentiere. The hot chocolate is the order. Book for a table inside, or take your chances on the terrace in decent weather, and bring cash.

For dinner, Le Monchu is the busiest room in the valley and the one to book first. The pierrade is the reason, a hot stone on the table and thin slices of beef to cook on it yourself, and it takes a big table without fuss. When the group has had its fill of stone and cheese, MUMMA is the change of pace, small plates in the evening only, and the crab and jalapeno rice balls are the thing to order. Tables are hard to get, so book as early as you can. For something quieter, Le Café Comptoir in Vallorcine is close to the station, so nobody has to drive. The menu is short and changes, and the room is full of locals.

L'Hydromel is the bar, for a burger, a local beer and a bill that is fair for Chamonix. In the morning, Moody Coffee Roasters is small and full first thing, so go later if you want a seat, though by then the ginger chilli cookies may have sold out. Book dinner before you arrive rather than on the night, and if you are staying up the valley, work out the train home before the wine list.