Used to France? The Swiss ski resorts that keep the altitude

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20267 min read

We always go to Val Thorens, or Tignes, or Val d'Isère. This year we fancy Switzerland. We are not giving up the altitude, because the altitude is why the snow is good. But we would like something to look at from the lift, and a village at the end of the day that grew, rather than one that was built for the skiing.

If that is you, the short answer is St Moritz. It is the only Swiss resort that matches the French ones on both kinds of altitude: a village at 1,822 metres and lifts to 3,303. It adds a glamorous, sunny town with a lake. What it takes away is one big linked ski area.

Here is how we got there.

The numbers, with the resorts you know alongside

The French resorts are on this table as your yardstick, not as options.

ResortVillageHighest liftSki areaSeason
Val Thorens2,300 m3,230 m600 km, the Three ValleysLate November to early May
Tignes2,100 m3,456 m300 km, Espace KillyLate November to early May
Val d'Isère1,850 m3,456 m, on the Tignes side300 km, Espace KillyLate November to early May
La Plagne1,800 m3,250 m425 km, ParadiskiDecember to April
St Moritz1,822 m3,303 mAbout 106 km measured, on separate mountainsDecember to April
Arosa1,800 m2,653 m225 km, linked with LenzerheideDecember to April
Zermatt1,620 mAlmost 3,900 m322 km measured with CerviniaYear round on the glacier
Grindelwald1,034 m2,970 m150 km from its own liftsDecember to April

The high villages and the pretty ones are different places

The French villages you know sit at 1,800 metres and above. Of the fifteen Swiss resorts we cover, only two reach that: St Moritz at 1,822 and Arosa at 1,800. The villages people picture when they think of Swiss skiing, the car free ones and the ones under the Eiger, are much lower. Wengen sits at 1,274 metres and Grindelwald at 1,034. Zermatt, at 1,620, comes closest to having both.

So you choose. Keep the altitude, and the scenery comes from the mountains rather than the village street. Go for the postcard, and give up several hundred metres.

And watch the numbers. Switzerland is where the brochure figures are least like the skiing. Verbier is quoted at 410 kilometres; that is the pass, and Verbier's own area measures about 97. St Moritz's 350 is a pass across separate mountains. Davos sells 300 kilometres across six mountains; we measure 224, and only Parsenn, at 95.5, is shared by lift with Klosters. In this article we use what you can ski from your door, or our own measurement, and we say which.

Switzerland

St Moritz: the like for like on altitude

VillageVillage
1,822 m
Highest liftTop lift
3,303 m
Piste we measure around the village106 km

St. Moritz: 106 km of piste we measure. 30 km blue and easier 28%60 km red 57%16 km black 15%

A village at 1,822 metres, between La Plagne and Val d'Isère, and lifts to 3,303, higher than Val Thorens or La Plagne. If altitude is what makes your week, this is the Swiss resort that keeps all of it.

What it adds is the town. Our read of St Moritz is glamorous and sunny, with a lake full of events and plenty to do off the slopes. If Courchevel is your French resort, St Moritz is the only one of its three closest Swiss matches that keeps the upmarket polish.

What it does not have is one linked ski area. The skiing is spread across separate mountains you travel between, and around the town we measure about 106 kilometres, roughly a third of Espace Killy. For a week of altitude and good living, that is plenty. For a week of covering ground, it is not.

The slopes will feel familiar, and a little kinder. Twenty four percent of St Moritz's piste is steeper than one in four, against 25 at Val Thorens and Tignes, and its reds average 21.0 percent against 23 to 24 at the French resorts on the table. Its season, December to April, is a little shorter at both ends than Val Thorens, Tignes and Val d'Isère.

Switzerland · Arosa Lenzerheide

Arosa: the altitude, and a ski area that joins up

VillageVillage
1,800 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,653 m
Linked areaLinked
225 km
Piste we measure around the village183 km

Arosa: 183 km of piste we measure. 97 km blue and easier 53%72 km red 39%15 km black 8%

Plus 9 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

Arosa's village is at 1,800 metres, exactly La Plagne's, and a single cable car joins it to Lenzerheide to make one ski area of 225 kilometres. Three sources agree on that figure to the kilometre, which in Switzerland is rarer than it should be. Of all the Swiss resorts, it is the one our matching puts closest to La Plagne, Courchevel and Val Thorens.

The catch is the top. Arosa's lifts reach 2,653 metres, lower than any of the French resorts on the table, so the high village is doing most of the work for snow security. And our read of it is gentle and sunny, not grand or pretty, with 24 percent of its piste steeper than one in four, close to Val Thorens. Of our four picks, this is the Swiss week that will feel most like your French one, with a different view out of the window.

Switzerland · Matterhorn

Zermatt: if the scenery is the point

VillageVillage
1,620 m
Highest liftTop lift
3,899 m
Linked areaLinked
322 km
Piste we measure around the village151 km

Zermatt: 151 km of piste we measure. 33 km blue and easier 22%107 km red 71%11 km black 8%

Plus 23 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

If what you want from Switzerland is the scenery and the village, and you will give up some village altitude for it, the honest answer is Zermatt. The car free village sits at 1,620 metres, 180 below La Plagne. The lifts climb to almost 3,900 metres, the highest of any resort we cover, and you can ski the glacier all year. Measured with Cervinia over the border, the area is 322 kilometres, about the size of Espace Killy, though the Italian side needs the International pass.

Zermatt has its own crossover piece, on what people love about it and where they go next, and we will not repeat it here. One line from it matters to a France regular: by our measurement, Zermatt's pistes are the least steep of any resort we cover. Its reputation for serious skiing rests on the off piste.

Switzerland · Jungfrau

Grindelwald: the postcard, if you will trade the altitude

VillageVillage
1,034 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,970 m
Linked areaLinked
150 km
Piste we measure around the village132 km

Grindelwald: 132 km of piste we measure. 55 km blue and easier 42%57 km red 43%19 km black 14%

Grindelwald sits beneath the north face of the Eiger, and our read of it is postcard pretty and traditional. From its own lifts you can ski 150 kilometres. The Jungfrau pass says 211, but that includes Mürren, which is not lift linked. The lifts reach 2,970 metres, so the skiing has height.

The village does not. At 1,034 metres it is 766 metres below La Plagne and more than 1,200 below Val Thorens. Our matching puts it closest to Samoëns and Les Gets in France, which tells you the kind of week it is. In a good snow year, for a group that wants the Alps to look like the Alps, that is a fair trade. Late in a thin season, it is the one to worry about.

It is gentle, too. Only 15 percent of Grindelwald's piste is steeper than one in four, and its reds average 18.3 percent, barely steeper than the average Tignes blue at 17.6. Wengen, car free at 1,274 metres, is on the same lift pass: same skiing, different village.

Swiss runs are kinder than their colours

Measured from the gradient of every piste we hold:

Average gradientBlueRedBlack
France16.2%24.3%29.6%
Switzerland15.0%19.9%26.7%

The average Swiss red, at 19.9 percent, is nearer a French blue than a French red. The average Swiss black, at 26.7, is nearer a French red than a French black. The picks bear it out: Zermatt's reds average 17.2 percent, Grindelwald's 18.3, St Moritz's 21.0 and Arosa's 21.8, against 23.1 to 23.9 at the French resorts on the table.

This is average gradient, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch, not its average. But a group that skis French reds with confidence will find most Swiss reds easy, and should not be put off by the black on the map.

Who should ignore all of this

Skiers who measure the week in kilometres.

The biggest genuinely linked area inside Switzerland that we have classified is Arosa Lenzerheide at 225 kilometres. Zermatt reaches 322 only by crossing into Italy. If you go to Val Thorens for the Three Valleys, nothing here replaces it.

Anyone who goes to Val Thorens for the evenings.

Of the fifteen Swiss resorts we cover, Verbier is the only one we would call lively, and its own area measures about 97 kilometres. The buzz does not travel.

So, which one

Choose St. Moritz if

you want to stay close to the altitude you are used to, in the village and at the top, and you will trade a big linked area for a glamorous town.

Choose Arosa if

you want the Swiss week most like your French one: a high village, a ski area that joins up, and gentle runs.

Choose Zermatt if

the scenery and the car free village matter most, and the highest lifts we cover make up for a lower village.

Choose Grindelwald if

you want the Alps to look like the postcard, and you will give up several hundred metres of village to get it.

If you are still stuck
St. Moritz

It has the highest village of any Swiss resort we cover, so it asks you to give up the least on altitude.

High altitude ski resorts in Switzerland for France regulars | Ski Snug