Used to Austria? The Swiss ski resorts that will feel like home
The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20269 min read
We ski Austria. St Anton when the group skis well, Ischgl when we want snow we can count on, Kitzbühel for a proper town, Saalbach when the children come too. Wherever it is, the day ends the same way, in a bar at the bottom of the last run, still in our boots, and then a village with some life in it after dinner. This year somebody has suggested Switzerland. We hear it is high, beautiful and beautifully run. We also hear it is quiet.
If that is your group, the short answer is Verbier. It is the only one of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover that we would call lively, it lists off piste and nightlife among what it does best, as St Anton does, and its skiing reaches higher than any of yours. What it asks you to give up is the bite on the piste and some of the mountain from the door. If what you love about Austria is the village rather than the bar, go to Adelboden instead.
How we got there
We started with the Austrian resorts a UK regular most likely knows: St Anton, Ischgl, Kitzbühel and Saalbach-Hinterglemm. All four are lively by our read and list nightlife among what they do best. Of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, six are lively by our read. Of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, one is.
So this page is about which part of an Austrian week you can take with you. We went through every Swiss resort we cover for the four things those weeks are built on: the evening, the village, a big, high mountain and the family circuit, and picked the closest on each. What Switzerland gives back is height: all four Swiss villages sit higher than St Anton's.
| Resort | Village | Top of the skiing, measured | Piste we measure around the village | Steeper than one in four | Our read |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| St Anton | 1,304 m | 2,799 m | 155 km | 43% | Energetic and social |
| Ischgl | 1,377 m | 2,868 m | 152 km | 34% | High energy and snowy |
| Kitzbühel | 800 m | 1,968 m | 135 km | 29% | Medieval and lively |
| Verbier | 1,500 m | 3,283 m | 97 km | 19% | Cosmopolitan and lively |
| Adelboden | 1,350 m | 2,356 m | 115 km | 25% | Traditional and warm |
| Davos | 1,560 m | 2,808 m | 145 km | 23% | Busy and practical |
| Arosa | 1,800 m | 2,848 m | 183 km | 24% | Gentle and sunny |
The Austrian ski area totals are not yet classified in our data, and several Swiss pass figures count far more than you ski from the village, so the piste column is one ruler for every row: our measurement around each village. Every resort here runs from December to April, except Ischgl, from late November to May.
Verbier: the only Swiss resort with an Austrian evening
- VillageVillage
- 1,500 m
- Highest liftTop lift
- 3,330 m
Verbier: 97 km of piste we measure. 39 km blue and easier 40%48 km red 49%11 km black 11%
Plus 26 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.
Our read of Verbier is cosmopolitan and lively, and it is the only Swiss resort we cover with St Anton's two tags, lively and expert. Our guide is clear about the evenings: the après starts on the mountain in the afternoon, rolls into the village without a pause and ends in clubs that stay open into the small hours. That is an Austrian day, moved to the Valais, on a Geneva flight rather than an Innsbruck one.
The off piste carries over too. Verbier has 25.9 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, the second most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, and our guide puts much of its freeride within reach of the lifts; the Freeride World Tour finishes each season on the Bec des Rosses, above the resort. Against St Anton's 70 kilometres, the most of the 55 resorts we cover, it is a second best, but a serious one.
It is higher than anything you are leaving. The village is at 1,500 metres, 123 above Ischgl's, and the skiing reaches 3,283 metres by our measure, the sixth highest of the 55 resorts we cover. It is snow sure on our measure: 84 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, up to 3,283 metres.
The trade is the piste itself. Our matching puts Verbier close to no Austrian resort we cover, mostly because its runs are so gentle. Only 19 percent of its piste is steeper than one in four, against 43 at St Anton, and 48 percent is gentler than 15 percent, the joint highest share of the 55 resorts we cover. Its blues average 11.5 percent, the gentlest of the 55 resorts we cover. The reputation lives off the piste. And the Four Valleys is quoted at 410 kilometres, but that is the pass: Verbier's own domain measures about 97, less than any Austrian resort on the table.
Adelboden: the village that will feel most Austrian
- VillageVillage
- 1,350 m
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,362 m
- Linked areaLinked
- 85 km
Adelboden: 115 km of piste we measure. 52 km blue and easier 46%49 km red 43%13 km black 11%
If what you love about Austria is the village, our matching has a clear answer. Of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, it makes Adelboden the closest Swiss match for six, Kitzbühel and Saalbach-Hinterglemm among them; no other Swiss resort is first for more than two. On character it earns that. Adelboden is a classic chalet village, traditional and warm by our read, linked by lift to Lenk, with the World Cup on its list. A Kitzbühel regular, whose town lists racing among its own strengths, will know the type.
It sits higher. The village is at 1,350 metres, 550 above Kitzbühel's, and 55 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, against 11 at Kitzbühel and 19 at Saalbach. The skiing tops out at 2,356 metres by our measure, 388 above Kitzbühel's top, though short of the height we look for before calling a resort snow sure.
The headline figure overstates the ski area. The pass covers 188 kilometres across five sectors that are not all joined, and from Adelboden you can ski 85 of them without transport, Lenk included. Around the village we measure 115 kilometres of piste.
The runs will feel familiar. Adelboden's reds average 21.3 percent, a touch steeper than Kitzbühel's 20.3, and its blacks 26.1 against 25.9, though there is far less black: 12.9 kilometres against Kitzbühel's 34, the most of the 55 resorts we cover. What you give up is the town and its nights. Adelboden is a warm village, not a loud one.
Davos: Ischgl's size and snow, in a town that stays up
- VillageVillage
- 1,560 m
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,844 m
- Linked areaLinked
- 96 km
Davos: 145 km of piste we measure. 63 km blue and easier 43%61 km red 42%21 km black 14%
Plus 13 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.
Our matching puts Davos closer to Ischgl than any resort we cover outside Austria, and the measurements agree. We measure 145 kilometres of piste around the town, against Ischgl's 152. The reds average 20.7 percent, exactly Ischgl's figure, and there are 20.7 kilometres of black, the most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover. It is snow sure on our measure: 78 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, up to 2,808 metres, 60 below Ischgl's top, from a town at 1,560 metres, 183 above Ischgl's village.
Davos shares a pass with Klosters across separate mountains, and only the Parsenn, 95.5 kilometres, is genuinely shared by the two; the rest need a train, a bus or the car. The official 300 kilometres sits 34 percent above the 224 we measure across the same ten lift areas. It is gentler too: 23 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against Ischgl's 34.
The evenings belong to a town. Our read of Davos is busy and practical, not lively, but our guide puts a younger, freestyle crowd in the bars at the foot of the Jakobshorn once the lifts close, and a working town does not go dark when the skiing stops. Nobody will mistake it for Ischgl at midnight. Nobody will send you to bed at nine, either.
Arosa: one big mountain from the door, for the Saalbach family
- VillageVillage
- 1,800 m
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,653 m
- Linked areaLinked
- 225 km
Arosa: 183 km of piste we measure. 97 km blue and easier 53%72 km red 39%15 km black 8%
Plus 9 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.
If your Austrian week is Saalbach with the children, what you love is the circuit: a big mountain from the door, with plenty of it easy. Arosa keeps that best. Arosa and Lenzerheide make one ski area of 225 kilometres, the two valleys joined by a single cable car, and three sources agree on the figure. Around Arosa we measure 183 kilometres of piste, the most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover and about 9 short of Saalbach's 192, with 96.6 kilometres of blue and easier, also the most of the Swiss resorts we cover.
And it is high. The village is at 1,800 metres, the second highest of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover and 797 above Saalbach's. It is snow sure on our measure: 65 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, up to 2,848 metres, against 19 percent at Saalbach.
The trade is the rest of Saalbach. Arosa is gentle and sunny by our read, a family mountain, and nothing in our data says party. Its piste is kinder: 24 percent is steeper than one in four, against Saalbach's 42, and its reds average 21.8 percent against 27.8. The blacks are the steepest of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, at 32.4 percent, but there are only 14.5 kilometres of them.
The runs: a Swiss red is a gentler thing
Grade colours are set resort by resort, to conventions that differ between countries, so a red in Switzerland and a red in Austria are not the same run. We compare the measured gradient instead:
| Average gradient | Blue | Red | Black |
|---|---|---|---|
| Austria | 16.4% | 23.4% | 30.3% |
| Switzerland | 15.0% | 19.9% | 26.7% |
The average Swiss red, at 19.9 percent, sits exactly halfway between an Austrian blue and an Austrian red. Kitzbühel's reds average 20.3 percent and Ischgl's 20.7, so if that is home, Swiss reds will feel familiar. St Anton's reds average 25.8. Saalbach's average 27.8, steeper even than the average Swiss black. And every one of the four Austrian resorts we started with has a bigger share of piste steeper than one in four than any of our four Swiss picks.
The clearest exception is Engelberg. Its reds average 24.0 percent, the steepest of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover and steeper than the Austrian average, and 31 percent of its piste is steeper than one in four, the biggest share of the Swiss resorts we cover. It is small, though, with 46 kilometres of piste on our measure, the least of any Swiss resort we cover, and its real draw, freeride such as the Laub, sits outside those figures.
This is average gradient per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch. The direction is still clear.
Who should ignore all of this
St Anton skiers who go for the steep.
At St Anton, 43 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, joint second of the 55 resorts we cover, and there are 70 kilometres of marked itinerary, the most of any resort we cover. Switzerland does not replace that on the piste. The biggest steep share of the Swiss resorts we cover is Engelberg's 31 percent, on a small mountain, and Verbier's itinerary is just over a third of St Anton's.
Groups who want the party and the big mountain from the same door.
Verbier has the evenings, but its own domain measures about 97 kilometres; Davos and Arosa have the kilometres without the noise. St Anton and Ischgl give you both, with 155 and 152 kilometres of piste measured around the two villages. Stay in Austria.
So, which one
the evening is half of why you go to Austria, and your group skis well enough to take a guide off piste.
what you love is a traditional village with racing in it, you want more of your piste up high than Kitzbühel gives you, and quiet evenings suit you.
you go to Ischgl for the size, the snow and the black runs, and a real town with bars in it will do for a night out.
you are the Saalbach family: one big linked mountain, plenty of easy skiing, a high village and earlier nights.
It is the only Swiss resort we cover where the end of the day will feel like Austria, and its skiing is higher than anything you are leaving. Take a guide for the off piste, and do not judge it by the reds.
