Like Zürs, but in France: nearly everything but the quiet

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20265 min read

Zürs is a tiny, exclusive corner of the Arlberg, in our own words, and every tag we give it points the same way: exclusive and quiet is our read, upmarket and quiet is how we class it, and exclusive and quiet are on its list. The village sits at 1,720 metres, the second highest of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, and most of the skiing is above it: 74 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres.

The mountain is harder than a quiet village suggests. Thirty three percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 26 at a typical resort we cover, and only 21 percent is gentler than 15 percent, the smallest share of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover. Beside it lie 40 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, the fourth most of the 55 resorts we cover, around a village where we measure 75 kilometres of piste. On snow we make no call yet: the skiing tops out at 2,440 metres by our measure, 60 short of the 2,500 our test asks for.

The honest headline: France has the mountain, not the hush. None of the three French resorts our matching puts closest is one we class quiet. What France can give a Zürs skier is the polish, a high village, the steep and the off piste, with snow sure on our measure on top, and Val d'Isère gives all of it.

ResortVillageTop of the skiing, measuredPiste we measure around the villageMarked off piste itinerarySteeper than one in fourGentler than 15%At or above 1,800 m
Your benchmarkZürs1,720 m2,440 m75 km40 km33%21%74%
Val d'Isère1,850 m3,205 m158 km29 km29%28%100%
Chamonix1,035 m3,222 m, the top of the piste102.5 km44 km39%27%70%
Village
1,850 m
1,720 m
Top of the skiing, measured
3,205 m
2,440 m
Piste we measure around the village
158 km
75 km
Marked off piste itinerary
29 km
40 km
Steeper than one in four
29%
33%
Gentler than 15%
28%
21%
At or above 1,800 m
100%
74%
Chamonix
BenchmarkZürs
Village
1,035 m
1,720 m
Top of the skiing, measured
3,222 m, the top of the piste
2,440 m
Piste we measure around the village
102.5 km
75 km
Marked off piste itinerary
44 km
40 km
Steeper than one in four
39%
33%
Gentler than 15%
27%
21%
At or above 1,800 m
70%
74%
The Arlberg's total size is not yet classified in our data, so the piste column is what we measure around each village. The steep and gentle columns come from the measured gradient, averaged per run segment, where a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch: a fairer test across a border than the colours.
France

Val d'Isère: the closest on the mountain, and the polish

VillageVillage
1,850 m 130 m higher
Highest liftTop lift
3,456 m 645 m higher
Piste we measure around the village158 km
Dashed: Zürs, 75 km

Val d'Isère: 158 km of piste we measure. 90 km green and blue 57%46 km red 29%22 km black 14%

Plus 29 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

Our matching puts Val d'Isère closer to Zürs than any other French resort we cover, and it keeps four of the things it compares: the off piste, the village height, the steep and the upmarket feel. Our one line is a high altitude classic that skis big and stays up late, we class it upmarket, lively and expert, and high altitude, advanced skiers and lively evenings are its list.

The off piste comes with it. There are 29 kilometres of marked itinerary, the fifth most of the 55 resorts we cover, against your 40, and the longest single route we measure, the Col Pers, runs 4.9 kilometres with 917 metres of descent, against 2.3 kilometres and 689 metres for Zürs's longest. The steep is close: 29 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 33, and the reds average 23.9 percent, against 24.2. There are 22 kilometres of black against 6.

Then it settles the snow question. The village is at 1,850 metres, 130 above yours, and 100 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, the joint biggest share of the 55 resorts we cover, up to 3,205 metres, 765 above Zürs's top. On our measure Val d'Isère is snow sure, and its season runs from late November to early May. It is much bigger, too: the Espace Killy, shared with Tignes, is 300 kilometres, and we measure 158 around the village alone, against 75.

The trade is the hush. Lively evenings are on Val d'Isère's list, and our guide has a party up the mountain in the afternoon and bars that stay open late. If the quiet still matters, our guide's answer is Le Fornet, the quiet hamlet at the eastern end of the resort. You fly to Geneva.

Tignes, on the same pass, sits higher still. Its village is at 2,100 metres, the second highest of the 55 resorts we cover and 380 above Zürs, and it is snow sure on our measure: 97 percent of its piste is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 3,449 metres. But we class it modern, our read is practical and high, and only 25 percent of its piste is steeper than one in four. Our matching finds none of the things it compares carrying over from Zürs. For a Zürs skier it is the same pass as Val d'Isère from a higher, more practical base.

France

Chamonix: the closest on the off piste, and steeper still

VillageVillage
1,035 m 685 m lower
Piste we measure around the village103 km
Dashed: Zürs, 75 km

Chamonix: 103 km of piste we measure. 42 km green and blue 41%38 km red 37%23 km black 22%

Plus 44 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

If the itineraries are why you go to Zürs, Chamonix has more of them. There are 44 kilometres of marked itinerary, the most of the 17 French resorts we cover and the third most of the 55 resorts we cover, against your 40. The longest, the Vallée Blanche, runs 7.2 kilometres with 1,393 metres of descent on our measure, and our guide is clear that it is a route for a qualified mountain guide.

The piste is steeper as well. Thirty nine percent of it is steeper than one in four, the joint sixth biggest share of the 55 resorts we cover, against 33, and the reds average 27.0 percent, the fifth steepest of the 55 resorts we cover, against 24.2. There are 22.9 kilometres of black against 6. Our one line is a real mountain town under the biggest peak in the Alps, we class it expert, and expert terrain, mountaineering and town life are its list.

The snow is a call we have not made. Seventy percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against your 74, and the highest piste we measure is at 3,222 metres, on the Grands Montets, 782 above Zürs's top. Chamonix's highest lift is a mountaineering cable car, not a piste top, so we judge it on the piste, and that call is still open.

What you give up is the village Zürs gives you. Chamonix is at 1,035 metres, 685 below Zürs. We class it neither upmarket nor quiet, our read is a real working town, and our guide describes a string of separate ski areas joined by bus and train rather than by lift, with a lively town between them. Its area is not classified in our data; we measure 102.5 kilometres. You fly to Geneva, and the season runs from December to May.

If you only try one
Val d'Isère

Zürs is a smart, quiet, high village above a steep mountain with a great deal of marked off piste, and Val d'Isère keeps three of those four things: the upmarket feel, the high village and the steep, off piste mountain. It adds snow sure on our measure, a top 765 metres higher and far more piste. What you give up is the hush, and Le Fornet is our guide's way to keep some of it. If the itineraries are the whole point and the polish can go, Chamonix.

Resorts like Zürs in France, measured | Ski Snug