Like Verbier, but in France: the piste travels, the scene stays home
The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20265 min read
So you love Verbier and fancy France this year. In its own figures, Verbier is a high, sunny mountain with a famous back country. The skiing reaches 3,283 metres by our measure, the sixth highest of the 55 resorts we cover, and it is snow sure on our measure: 84 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres. There are 25.9 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, seventh of the 55 we cover, the Bec des Rosses above the village hosts the freeride world tour finale, and the evenings are the other half of the reputation.
Then there is the part regulars rarely mention. On the groomed runs, Verbier is gentle. Forty eight percent of its piste is gentler than 15 percent, the joint most of the 55 we cover, and its blues average 11.5 percent, the gentlest of the 55 resorts we cover. And its own domain measures about 97 kilometres. The 410 you will see quoted is a pass figure for the Four Valleys, not Verbier's skiing.
The honest headline: none of the French resorts our matching puts closest keeps the off piste or the nights. All three come with less than a fifth of Verbier's itinerary, and none is lively by our read. What France can match, and on size beat, is the piste.
| Resort | Village | Top of the skiing, measured | Ski area | Piste we measure around the village | Marked off piste itinerary | Piste gentler than 15% | Piste at or above 1,800 m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Your benchmarkVerbier | 1,500 m | 3,283 m | 97 km of its own; the 410 km quoted is the Four Valleys pass | 97 km | 25.9 km | 48% | 84% |
| Les Arcs | 1,600 m | 3,208 m | Paradiski, 425 km, linked | 200 km | 1.7 km | 48% | 73% |
| La Plagne | 1,800 m | 3,022 m | Paradiski, 425 km, linked | 202.5 km | 3.0 km | 39% | 80% |
| Serre Chevalier | 1,350 m | 2,751 m | Not classified; we use our own measure | 152.7 km | 1.7 km | 38% | 72% |
Les Arcs: the closest on the piste
- VillageVillage
- 1,600 m 100 m higher
- Highest liftTop lift
- 3,226 m 104 m lower
Les Arcs: 200 km of piste we measure. 117 km green and blue 58%59 km red 30%24 km black 12%
On the runs you ski between the famous bits, Les Arcs is as close as France gets. Forty eight percent of its piste is gentler than 15 percent, exactly Verbier's share, so the two sit joint top of the 55 resorts we cover. Its blues average 12.6 percent, the gentlest of the 17 French resorts we cover and the third gentlest of the 55 we cover. The skiing reaches 3,208 metres by our measure, only 75 below Verbier's top, and the village sits at 1,600 metres, 100 above. It is snow sure on our measure: 73 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres.
Then it gives you far more of it. We measure 200 kilometres of piste around Les Arcs, about twice Verbier's 97. Paradiski, which it shares with La Plagne by the Vanoise Express cable car, is 425 kilometres and genuinely linked. There are 24 kilometres of black, more than twice Verbier's 10.9, and the Aiguille Rouge gives a strong skier a big, high day out.
What you give up is everything Verbier is famous for after the piste. There are 1.7 kilometres of marked itinerary against 25.9. Our read on Les Arcs is modern and easy, a doorstep skiing resort built for families, and the evenings are sociable rather than loud, busiest in Arc 1800. The reds are steeper too, averaging 24.3 percent against Verbier's 20.2, and 26 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 19. Think of it as Verbier's cruising, twice over, in a quieter key.
La Plagne: the closest on snow
- VillageVillage
- 1,800 m 300 m higher
- Highest liftTop lift
- 3,250 m 80 m lower
La Plagne: 203 km of piste we measure. 128 km green and blue 63%47 km red 23%28 km black 14%
La Plagne is the other door into Paradiski, so this is the same lift pass from a higher village. Our figure for it is 1,800 metres, 300 above Verbier's, and 80 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, the nearest of the three picks to Verbier's 84. It is snow sure on our measure, though the skiing tops out at 3,022 metres, 261 below Verbier's.
It is also the pick with the most black: 28 kilometres, the fourth most of the 55 resorts we cover, against Verbier's 10.9. Read the gradient before you get excited. Those blacks average 25.5 percent, gentler than Verbier's 29.0 and the French average of 29.6, so there is plenty of black here but few of the runs are brutal. The rest of the mix is close to Les Arcs: 39 percent gentler than 15 percent, 27 percent steeper than one in four.
The trade is the same as at Les Arcs, and a little more so. La Plagne is practical and friendly by our read, at its best for families, beginners and value, with 3.0 kilometres of itinerary. The liveliest bars are in Plagne Centre and Belle Plagne, and a late night there is an early one by Verbier's standards.
Serre Chevalier: the closest on village feel
- VillageVillage
- 1,350 m 150 m lower
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,830 m 500 m lower
Serre Chevalier: 153 km of piste we measure. 91 km green and blue 60%45 km red 29%17 km black 11%
Les Arcs and La Plagne are modern, purpose built resorts by our read. If the part of Verbier you love is a village with a centre and a life beyond the lifts, Serre Chevalier is the French pick: a string of old villages, relaxed and sunny by our read, with tree skiing and value on its list.
The skiing is bigger than Verbier's on our ruler, 152.7 kilometres around the village, more than half as much again, with 91.4 kilometres of green and blue. It is snow sure on our measure: 72 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, up to 2,751. Its reds average 24.9 percent, a little above the French average, and 27 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four.
What you give up is height and noise. The village is at 1,350 metres, 150 below Verbier's, and the top is 532 metres lower. There are 1.7 kilometres of marked itinerary, and our read on Serre Chevalier is quiet. It is a Verbier week with the volume turned right down, which suits some Verbier regulars more than they would admit.
Strip away the off piste and the late nights, which no French resort we match to Verbier keeps, and what is left is a high mountain with a great deal of gentle piste. Our matching puts Les Arcs closest in France, and on the piste it earns it: the same gentle share, blues nearly as kind, a top within 75 metres, and twice the piste on a genuinely linked pass. Go knowing the reds are steeper and the evenings quieter. If snow is your first worry, stay on the same pass and pick La Plagne.
