Like Courmayeur, but in Switzerland: the off piste, without the Via Roma

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20265 min read

Nobody books Courmayeur for the piste map. They book it for two things that rarely share a valley: an old stone town on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, where lunch is the event and the evening starts with an aperitivo, and serious off piste, taken with a guide, on one of the biggest mountains in the Alps. Our read is chic and welcoming, upmarket and expert. It is snow sure on our measure, too: 72 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 2,715 metres.

The marked pistes are the small print. Around the village we measure 42 kilometres, the least of the 55 resorts we cover; an independent count of the pisted runs says 41.5, and the 100 kilometres the resort publishes counts off piste as well. What there is, though, is steep: 32 percent of it is steeper than one in four, and the reds average 24.3 percent, the steepest of the 10 Italian resorts we cover.

The honest headline: Switzerland has the mountain, not the town. Our matching finds Courmayeur's closest resort anywhere in the Alps, and its second closest, in Switzerland. But none of the three Swiss resorts it puts closest is upmarket by our read, and none has a Via Roma. Engelberg keeps the most of what happens above the town.

ResortVillageTop of the skiing, measuredPiste we measure around the villageMarked off piste itinerarySteeper than one in fourAt or above 1,800 mSeason
Your benchmarkCourmayeur1,224 m2,715 m42 km3.3 km32%72%December to April
Engelberg1,000 m3,004 m46 km1.8 km31%53%December to May
Andermatt1,444 m2,922 m61 km21 km27%76%December to April
Crans-Montana1,500 m2,868 m85 km3.2 km22%79%December to April
Village
1,000 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
3,004 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
46 km
42 km
Marked off piste itinerary
1.8 km
3.3 km
Steeper than one in four
31%
32%
At or above 1,800 m
53%
72%
Season
December to May
December to April
Village
1,444 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,922 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
61 km
42 km
Marked off piste itinerary
21 km
3.3 km
Steeper than one in four
27%
32%
At or above 1,800 m
76%
72%
Season
December to April
December to April
Village
1,500 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,868 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
85 km
42 km
Marked off piste itinerary
3.2 km
3.3 km
Steeper than one in four
22%
32%
At or above 1,800 m
79%
72%
Season
December to April
December to April
All four are snow sure on our measure. Steepness is measured from the gradient, not the colour, because a typical Swiss red averages 19.9 percent across the resorts we cover, gentler than Courmayeur's by more than four points. Those are averages per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch, but they tell you how a week will feel.
Switzerland

Engelberg: the closest on the mountain

VillageVillage
1,000 m 224 m lower
Highest liftTop lift
3,028 m 273 m higher
Piste we measure around the village46 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Engelberg: 46 km of piste we measure. 20 km green and blue 43%22 km red 48%4.5 km black 10%

Engelberg is the nearest resort to Courmayeur anywhere in our data, and on the mountain the likeness is close. Our read is down to earth and snowy, with big vertical, a glacier and serious freeride near Lucerne, and we class both resorts as expert. Its real draw is the same kind as yours: the Laub and Steintäli freeride descents, which sit outside every piste figure here, much as the guided glacier days at Courmayeur do. The rule is the same as on Mont Blanc: go with a guide.

Line up the pistes and they barely differ. We measure 46 kilometres around Engelberg, against 42. Thirty-one percent is steeper than one in four, against 32, the biggest share of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, and its reds average 24.0 percent, the steepest of the Swiss resorts we cover and a whisker off your 24.3. Black is level too, 4.5 kilometres against 4.6. A Courmayeur skier will feel at home on the first morning.

The mountain also goes higher. The skiing reaches 3,004 metres, measured, 289 above Courmayeur's top, and the season runs into May. The village, though, is the lowest of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, at 1,000 metres, 224 below yours, so only 53 percent of the piste is at or above 1,800 metres. And the two sides of the valley are not joined: Brunni faces the Titlis across it, linked by a free ski bus. The rest of the trade is the town. Engelberg is unpretentious, not chic.

Switzerland

Andermatt: the closest on marked off piste

VillageVillage
1,444 m 220 m higher
Highest liftTop lift
2,961 m 206 m higher
Piste we measure around the village61 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Andermatt: 61 km of piste we measure. 27 km blue and easier 44%26 km red 43%8 km black 14%

Plus 21 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

If the part of Courmayeur you love is the skiing off the edge of the piste, Andermatt has more of it marked than any of the three picks. There are 21 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, more than six times Courmayeur's 3.3 and the fourth most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover. The longest we measure, the Guspis-Route, runs 5.5 kilometres with 1,170 metres of vertical. Our read is reborn and snowy, snowfall is one of the things it is known for, and we class it as expert, as we do Courmayeur.

It sits higher at every point. The village is at 1,444 metres, 220 above yours, the skiing tops out at 2,922, measured, 207 higher, and 76 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres. There is more of it to ski: 61 kilometres around the village, 19 more than Courmayeur's, in a pass of 180 kilometres with Sedrun and Disentis, all on one lift system. The Gemsstock is the exception; it stands apart from the linked area.

The trade is the edge on the piste and the character. Twenty-seven percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 32, and the blacks average 30.7 percent against your 36.4, the fourth steepest of the 55 resorts we cover. Andermatt is up and coming, and that is the opposite of an old mountaineering town that has been doing this for generations.

Switzerland

Crans-Montana: the closest on the sun and the style

VillageVillage
1,500 m 276 m higher
Highest liftTop lift
3,000 m 245 m higher
Piste we measure around the village85 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Crans-Montana: 85 km of piste we measure. 22 km blue and easier 26%50 km red 59%13 km black 15%

Crans-Montana loses both of Courmayeur's labels on our reading, so it is here for a different reader: the one who goes for the town, the terrace and the spa, and skis because it is there. Our read is sunny and smart, on a plateau with wide views over the Rhône, and golf and spa are on its list. Its marked itinerary is almost exactly yours, 3.2 kilometres against 3.3, and 36 percent of the piste is gentler than 15 percent, against 35.

It gives you twice the piste and more of everything on it. We measure 85 kilometres around the village, in one linked area of 140 kilometres that three independent sources agree on to the kilometre. There are 12.9 kilometres of black, nearly three times Courmayeur's 4.6, and the snow sits higher: the village is at 1,500 metres, 276 above yours, and 79 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 2,868, 153 above your top.

What goes is the bite. The reds average 19.2 percent against your 24.3, and 22 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 32. We class it as family rather than expert or upmarket, so it is gentler on the mountain and less polished in the town than Courmayeur. Geneva serves both resorts.

If you only try one
Engelberg

The hardest thing to replace about Courmayeur is the mountain: a small, steep piste area under something far bigger, where the best days are spent with a guide. Engelberg is the closest resort to Courmayeur anywhere in our data, with almost the same piste, the same steepness, the same expert label, a higher top and freeride that is the reason to go. Go knowing the village is lower and plainer, and that the long Italian lunch stays in Italy. If the town and the terrace matter more than the steep, Crans-Montana.

Resorts like Courmayeur in Switzerland, measured | Ski Snug