Like Courmayeur, but in Austria: the spa town or the steep blacks?

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20266 min read

You love Courmayeur, and you would like to try Austria without losing what makes it work. That is a short list but an unusual one. A chic stone town on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, where lunch is the main event. A thermal spa down the valley. Off piste with a guide that strong skiers keep coming back for. And piste that is small but sharp: we measure 42 kilometres around the village, the least of the 55 resorts we cover, and its blacks average 36.4 percent, the fourth steepest of the 55. It is snow sure on our measure, too: 72 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, up to 2,715 metres.

The honest headline: Austria is not where Courmayeur's nearest matches live. Our matching finds closer ones in Switzerland and Italy, and none of its three Austrian picks keeps the upmarket polish or the expert edge we tag Courmayeur with. None of the three is snow sure on our measure either. What Austria can give you is one part of Courmayeur at a time, and more piste than you are used to with each of them.

ResortVillageTop of the skiing, measuredPiste we measure around the villageSteeper than one in fourBlackPiste at or above 1,800 m
Your benchmarkCourmayeur1,224 m2,715 m42 km32%4.6 km72%
Bad Gastein1,000 m2,644 m107 km37%8.2 km50%
Obertauern1,740 m2,304 m74 km29%4 km61%
Mayrhofen630 m2,412 m90.5 km32%14.1 km55%
Village
1,000 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,644 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
107 km
42 km
Steeper than one in four
37%
32%
Black
8.2 km
4.6 km
Piste at or above 1,800 m
50%
72%
Village
1,740 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,304 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
74 km
42 km
Steeper than one in four
29%
32%
Black
4 km
4.6 km
Piste at or above 1,800 m
61%
72%
Village
630 m
1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,412 m
2,715 m
Piste we measure around the village
90.5 km
42 km
Steeper than one in four
32%
32%
Black
14.1 km
4.6 km
Piste at or above 1,800 m
55%
72%
A word on Courmayeur's size, because you will see a bigger number. The resort publishes 100 kilometres, which in its own wording is groomed slopes and off piste. The measured pisted figure from skiresort.com is 41.5 kilometres, and ours is 42. Every Austrian pick here is bigger.

The steepness columns are our own gradient measurements, not the colours on the piste map, which mean different things in different countries. They are averages per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch, so treat them as a fair ruler rather than a feel for any single run.

Austria

Bad Gastein: the closest on the town

VillageVillage
1,000 m 224 m lower
Highest liftTop lift
2,686 m 69 m lower
Piste we measure around the village107 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Bad Gastein: 107 km of piste we measure. 41 km blue and easier 39%57 km red 54%8 km black 8%

Of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, our matching puts Bad Gastein nearest to Courmayeur, and the reason is not on the piste map. Our read on it is grand and characterful, with faded belle époque style, thermal spas and big scenery. If your Courmayeur week is half town and half spa, with the skiing fitted in between, this is the one of the three that leans the same way.

The skiing is bigger and, if anything, steeper. We measure 107 kilometres of piste around the village, about two and a half times Courmayeur's 42, and 37 percent of it is steeper than one in four, against 32: the third biggest steep share of the Austrian resorts we cover. The reds average 25.0 percent, a little steeper than Courmayeur's 24.3. There is more black, 8.2 kilometres against 4.6, though it is less fierce, averaging 32.6 percent against 36.4.

What you give up is height and a single mountain. The village sits at 1,000 metres, 224 below Courmayeur, and the skiing tops out at 2,644 metres by our measure, 71 short of yours. Half the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against 72 percent at home, so it does not pass our snow sure test. Bad Gastein's own area is 83 kilometres, one of four separate areas down the valley on a Ski amadé pass whose five regions are not all joined. Marked off piste itinerary is short in both, 1.5 kilometres here against 3.3, and our data says nothing about guided off piste, so we would not book it for that. Our tag for it is traditional rather than upmarket: grand, not chic.

Austria

Obertauern: the closest on the shape of the skiing

VillageVillage
1,740 m 516 m higher
Highest liftTop lift
2,313 m 442 m lower
Piste we measure around the village74 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Obertauern: 74 km of piste we measure. 41 km blue and easier 56%29 km red 39%4 km black 5%

Courmayeur's piste is compact, sharp where it matters and kind elsewhere, and of the three picks Obertauern is laid out most like it. We measure 74 kilometres of piste, the least of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, and the mix is close to yours: 36 percent of the piste is gentler than 15 percent, against 35, and 29 percent is steeper than one in four, against 32.

The blacks are the striking part. There are only 4 kilometres of them, against Courmayeur's 4.6, but they average 37.8 percent, the steepest average black of all 55 resorts we cover and a touch steeper than Courmayeur's, which comes fourth. Both sit far above the national averages for a black, 30.2 percent in Italy and 30.3 in Austria. The reds average 25.3 percent, against 24.3. A strong skier who loves Courmayeur's short, fierce blacks will recognise these.

It also wakes you up higher. The village is at 1,740 metres, the highest of the Austrian resorts we cover and 516 above Courmayeur. It is ski in ski out, the runs make a circuit, and the season runs from late November into May, against December to April at Courmayeur. The catch is the top: the skiing stops at 2,304 metres by our measure, 411 below yours, so for all the height of the village it does not pass our snow sure test. Our read is high and snowy rather than chic, and there is no marked off piste itinerary that we measure.

Austria

Mayrhofen: the closest on steepness

VillageVillage
630 m 594 m lower
Highest liftTop lift
2,500 m 255 m lower
Piste we measure around the village91 km
Dashed: Courmayeur, 42 km

Mayrhofen: 91 km of piste we measure. 29 km blue and easier 32%48 km red 53%14 km black 16%

Mayrhofen matches Courmayeur on one number exactly: 32 percent of the piste we measure is steeper than one in four, the same share. Our read on it is a lively, welcoming Zillertal town with a steep signature run, good for nightlife, families and the snow park.

The skiing is bigger and longer. We measure 90.5 kilometres around the town and 14.1 kilometres of black, about three times Courmayeur's 4.6. The longest run we measure is a red of 4.3 kilometres that drops 1,161 metres. Courmayeur's longest is a 1 kilometre red with 260 metres of vertical, so this is a different kind of leg burn.

The steep sits beside some very easy ground, and not much of it. The blues average 12.7 percent, the gentlest of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, and there are 28.5 kilometres of blue and easier, the least of the 13. The blacks average 27.5 percent, kinder than the Austrian average of 30.3 and well short of Courmayeur's 36.4: plenty of black, less bite.

The rest is a long way from home. The town is at 630 metres, the second lowest village of the 55 resorts we cover, and the skiing tops out at 2,412 metres by our measure, so it does not pass our snow sure test. The Zillertal is four separate areas, with the Hintertux glacier a bus ride away. And our tags for it are lively and family: the sociable end of Austria rather than the stylish end.

If you only try one
Bad Gastein

What sets Courmayeur apart is that the town is half the holiday, with the spa and the scenery around it, and Bad Gastein is the one of the three where that carries over. It is also our matching's closest Austrian pick, with more piste, more black and a bigger steep share than you are used to. Go knowing the village is lower, the skiing stops a little short of Courmayeur's top, the area comes in separate pieces and none of it passes our snow sure test. If the skiing is what you would miss most, Obertauern, for blacks as steep as any we measure.

Resorts like Courmayeur in Austria, measured | Ski Snug