Like Courchevel, but in Austria: the polish travels, the size does not
The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20266 min read
Ask a Courchevel regular what they love and the hotels and the restaurants come up first. The figures say the skiing deserves equal billing. No resort of the 55 we cover measures more piste around its villages: 296 kilometres, of which 178.5 is green or blue, again more than anywhere else we cover, and 32 is black, a total only one resort beats. It is snow sure on our measure, with 71 percent of the piste we measure above 1,800 metres, up to 2,697 metres, and it all sits inside the Three Valleys, quoted at 600 kilometres and linked end to end.
So the honest headline for Austria goes first: none of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover comes with that scale. What Austria gives you is one part of Courchevel at a time. Lech has the polish and the table. Ischgl has the black runs and the snow. Sölden has the height. Our matching ranks them in that order, closest first, and we agree.
| Resort | Village | Top of the skiing, measured | Piste we measure around the village | Easy piste | Black | Steeper than one in four | At or above 1,800 m |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Your benchmarkCourchevel | 1,747 m at Courchevel 1850 | 2,697 m | 296 km (the Three Valleys is quoted at 600 km) | 178.5 km green and blue | 32 km | 26% | 71% |
| Lech | 1,450 m | 2,440 m | 175 km | 79 km blue and easier | 26 km | 33% | 61% |
| Ischgl | 1,377 m | 2,868 m | 152 km | 43 km blue and easier | 27 km | 34% | 90% |
| Sölden | 1,368 m | 3,306 m | 135 km | 77 km blue and easier | 19 km | 30% | 89% |
One pattern runs through all three. The Austrian villages are lower: Lech, the highest of them, is 297 metres below the centre of Courchevel 1850. Higher up, two of the three turn that round.
Lech: the closest on polish
- VillageVillage
- 1,450 m 297 m lower
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,811 m 73 m higher
Lech: 175 km of piste we measure. 79 km blue and easier 45%70 km red 40%26 km black 15%
Plus 56 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.
Lech is the only one of the three that keeps Courchevel's upmarket streak, and our matching puts it nearer to Courchevel than any other Austrian resort we cover. The tone is quieter. Where Courchevel 1850 is glossy, Lech is refined: a pretty village with a river through it, building kept on a tight rein, no neon. The food is what travels best: Michelin recognised hotel dining rooms and mountain lunch spots with real kitchens, where dinner is an occasion, as it is in 1850. The season is the same, December to April, and families are well looked after, especially at Oberlech, a car free corner above the village where you step out of the door onto the snow.
It is also the biggest of the three picks. We measure 175 kilometres of piste around the village, the third most of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, and 79 kilometres of blue and easier, third again. There are 26 kilometres of black, the sixth most of the 55 we cover. Off the piste it leaves Courchevel well behind: 56 kilometres of marked itinerary, the second most of the 55 resorts we cover, against Courchevel's 4.5. The lift pass is shared with St Anton and Zürs, so the Arlberg goes further than our figure for Lech, but its size is not classified in our data and we compare on what we measure.
What you trade is scale first: about three fifths of Courchevel's piste, and less than half its easy ground. The mix is steeper too. Thirty-three percent of Lech's piste is steeper than one in four, against 26, even though grade for grade it is a shade gentler: its reds average 22.3 percent against Courchevel's 24.0. The cause is the share of blue. At Lech 45 percent of the piste is blue and easier; at Courchevel 60 percent is green and blue.
Height is the other trade. The skiing reaches 2,440 metres by our measure, 257 below Courchevel's top, and 61 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, against 71. That leaves Lech just under the line we use on height for snow sure, though our guide credits it with a strong snow record, helped by slopes that face the right way.
Ischgl: the closest on black runs
- VillageVillage
- 1,377 m 370 m lower
- Highest liftTop lift
- 2,872 m 134 m higher
Ischgl: 152 km of piste we measure. 43 km blue and easier 28%83 km red 54%27 km black 18%
Plus 11 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.
If the Courchevel you love is the 32 kilometres of black rather than the hotels, Ischgl gets nearer. It has 27 kilometres of black, the fifth most of the 55 resorts we cover and the second most of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, and 34 percent of its piste is steeper than one in four, against Courchevel's 26. It is snow sure on our measure, more so than Courchevel: 90 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres, the second biggest share of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover, up to 2,868 metres, 171 above Courchevel's top. The season runs from late November into May.
The mountain is shaped differently. Red makes up more than half of it, and the blue and easier runs come to 43 kilometres, a quarter of Courchevel's green and blue. Those reds are kind on average, 20.7 percent, gentler than Courchevel's 24.0 and the Austrian average of 23.4, but averages hide the pitches, and a third of the piste is still steeper than one in four. For anyone still learning, that is a much smaller playground.
The evenings change character too. A big night in 1850 means champagne and late licences; in Ischgl it starts in ski boots as the lifts close, the open air concerts are famous, and the party sets the tone of the whole village. What it shares with Courchevel is care: our guide singles out the grooming, the spas and some ambitious hotel kitchens. It also has a trick Courchevel cannot match, a lift link over the border to Samnaun in Switzerland, which is duty free.
Sölden: the closest on height
- VillageVillage
- 1,368 m 379 m lower
- Highest liftTop lift
- 3,340 m 602 m higher
Sölden: 135 km of piste we measure. 77 km blue and easier 57%40 km red 29%19 km black 14%
Courchevel's skiing stops at 2,697 metres by our measure. Sölden's reaches 3,306, the highest of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover and the fifth highest of the 55 we cover, and it has two glaciers. It is snow sure on our measure: 89 percent of the piste we measure is above 1,800 metres. If what you would miss is the sense that the snow will be there whatever the winter does, Sölden carries the most of it.
It is kinder to a mixed group than Ischgl, with 77 kilometres of blue and easier, close to Lech's 79. But the gradient runs against Courchevel's. Only 26 percent of Sölden's piste is gentler than 15 percent, against 35, and its blacks average 33.3 percent, steeper than Courchevel's 31.3, though there are fewer of them, 19 kilometres. We measure 135 kilometres of piste in all, under half of Courchevel's.
The village is the biggest change. Sölden is sporty and lively, a long village on the valley floor with a road running through it, practical rather than polished. Its one Courchevel moment is a long lunch behind glass at more than 3,000 metres, at ice Q on the Gaislachkogl. For quieter nights, Hochsölden sits above the main village at about 2,000 metres.
Courchevel's real gift is that a whole group, from the nervous beginner to the one who wants the black runs, gets a good day on the mountain and a good dinner after it. Of the three, Lech does both most completely: it measures biggest of the picks and has the most blue and easier, 26 kilometres of black, a great deal of marked itinerary, and a refined village that takes its food seriously. Go knowing it is smaller, steeper in its mix and lower at the top. If the snow worries you more than the dinner, Sölden; if it is the black runs you would miss, Ischgl.
