Like Andermatt, but in France: the off piste travels, the sleeper feel does not

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20266 min read

Andermatt is not loved for its piste map. Off piste is first on our list of what it does best, then snowfall, then the fact that it is up and coming, and the one trait we tag it with is expert. Our read of it is reborn and snowy, a sleeper in the middle of Switzerland.

Its own figures say the same. There are 21 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, the ninth most of the 55 resorts we cover, and the longest we measure runs 5.5 kilometres with 1,170 metres of vertical. It is snow sure on our measure: 76 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 2,922. And the piste itself is modest, 61 kilometres around the village, where only four of the 55 resorts we cover measure less.

The honest headline: France can give you more marked off piste than Andermatt and more of the skiing high, but not the feeling of a place still being found. The two French resorts we cover with the most marked itinerary are Chamonix, a working town, and Val d'Isère, lively and upmarket. The quiet pick, Saint-Martin-de-Belleville, has none that we measure. Val d'Isère carries the most of Andermatt across.

ResortVillageTop of the skiing, measuredPiste we measure around the villageMarked off piste itinerarySteeper than one in fourPiste at or above 1,800 mSeason
Your benchmarkAndermatt1,444 m2,922 m61 km21 km27%76%December to April
Val d'Isère1,850 m3,205 m158 km28.7 km29%100%Late November to early May
Chamonix1,035 m3,222 m, the top of the piste102.5 km44.3 km39%70%December to May
Saint-Martin-de-Belleville1,450 m2,691 m75 kmNone that we measure20%75%December to April
Village
1,850 m
1,444 m
Top of the skiing, measured
3,205 m
2,922 m
Piste we measure around the village
158 km
61 km
Marked off piste itinerary
28.7 km
21 km
Steeper than one in four
29%
27%
Piste at or above 1,800 m
100%
76%
Season
Late November to early May
December to April
Village
1,035 m
1,444 m
Top of the skiing, measured
3,222 m, the top of the piste
2,922 m
Piste we measure around the village
102.5 km
61 km
Marked off piste itinerary
44.3 km
21 km
Steeper than one in four
39%
27%
Piste at or above 1,800 m
70%
76%
Season
December to May
December to April
Village
1,450 m
1,444 m
Top of the skiing, measured
2,691 m
2,922 m
Piste we measure around the village
75 km
61 km
Marked off piste itinerary
None that we measure
21 km
Steeper than one in four
20%
27%
Piste at or above 1,800 m
75%
76%
Season
December to April
December to April
The areas count in different ways, so the piste column is one ruler for all four: what we measure around each village. Steepness is measured from the gradient, not the colour on the map: across the resorts we cover, a French red averages 24.3 percent and a Swiss one 19.9. These are averages per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch, but they cross a border better than the colours do.
France

Val d'Isère: the closest on the off piste and the snow

VillageVillage
1,850 m 406 m higher
Highest liftTop lift
3,456 m 495 m higher
Piste we measure around the village158 km
Dashed: Andermatt, 61 km

Val d'Isère: 158 km of piste we measure. 90 km green and blue 57%46 km red 29%22 km black 14%

Plus 29 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

Our matching ranks Val d'Isère only third of the French resorts we cover for Andermatt, but it carries over the most: the off piste, the share of steep piste, the share of gentle piste and the expert trait. Twenty nine percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 27 at Andermatt, and 28 percent is gentler than 15 percent, against 29. The blacks average 29.9 percent against your 30.7. And there are 28.7 kilometres of marked itinerary, the second most of the 17 French resorts we cover, the longest running 4.9 kilometres with 917 metres of vertical.

Then it adds height. The village is at 1,850 metres, 406 above Andermatt and the joint fifth highest of the 55 resorts we cover. On our measure 100 percent of the piste is at or above 1,800 metres, the joint biggest share of the 55 resorts we cover, and the skiing reaches 3,205 metres, 283 above yours. It is snow sure on our measure, and the season runs from late November to early May, longer at both ends than Andermatt's.

And it adds size. We measure 158 kilometres of piste around the village, and Espace Killy, shared with Tignes, is 300 kilometres, where Andermatt's pass covers 180 across Andermatt, Sedrun and Disentis. There are 21.8 kilometres of black against your 8.3, and 90 of green and blue for the less confident.

What you give up is the sleeper feel. Our read on Val d'Isère is lively and upmarket, with a party up the mountain in the afternoon and village bars that run late. Much of its best off piste lies out at Le Fornet and the Pissaillas glacier, and that is skied with a guide. There is nothing sleepy about it, and you fly to Geneva, not Zurich.

France

Chamonix: the closest on the off piste and the steep

VillageVillage
1,035 m 409 m lower
Piste we measure around the village103 km
Dashed: Andermatt, 61 km

Chamonix: 103 km of piste we measure. 42 km green and blue 41%38 km red 37%23 km black 22%

Plus 44 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

If the off piste is all of it, Chamonix has more than any other French resort we cover: 44.3 kilometres of marked itinerary, the third most of the 55 resorts we cover, against Andermatt's 21. The longest we measure is the Vallée Blanche, 7.2 kilometres with 1,393 metres of vertical, done with a guide. We tag Chamonix expert, as we do Andermatt, and our matching puts it second of the French resorts we cover, carrying over that trait and the share of gentle piste.

The piste has more bite. Thirty nine percent is steeper than one in four, the joint second biggest share of the 17 French resorts we cover, against your 27, and the reds average 27.0 percent, the fifth steepest of the 55 resorts we cover, against 22.0. There are 22.9 kilometres of black against 8.3.

The trade is the height at the door, and the shape. The town sits at 1,035 metres, 409 below Andermatt's village. The 3,842 metres often quoted is the Aiguille du Midi, a lift for mountaineers; the piste tops out at 3,222 metres on the Grands Montets, above Argentière. Chamonix's own total is not classified in our data. Seventy percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against your 76, and on Chamonix we give the figures and have not made a snow sure call either way. The skiing comes in separate areas along the valley, joined by bus and a little train, with 102.5 kilometres of piste measured. It is a real working town, best for expert terrain, mountaineering and town life. A sleeper it is not.

France

Saint-Martin-de-Belleville: the closest on the village and the snow line

VillageVillage
1,450 m 6 m higher
Piste we measure around the village75 km
Dashed: Andermatt, 61 km

Saint-Martin-de-Belleville: 75 km of piste we measure. 50 km green and blue 67%19 km red 25%6 km black 8%

Our matching puts Saint-Martin-de-Belleville closest to Andermatt of all the French resorts we cover, and on height the two are close to twins. The village is at 1,450 metres, 6 above Andermatt's. Seventy five percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against your 76, so it is snow sure on our measure too, over the same December to April season.

The piste carries over more than you might guess. The reds average 21.9 percent against your 22.0, and the blacks 30.9 against 30.7. We measure 75 kilometres around the village, inside a Three Valleys quoted at 600 kilometres and linked to Courchevel, Méribel and Val Thorens, with 50.2 kilometres of green and blue against your 26.9 of blue and easier.

What you give up is the thing at the top of Andermatt's list. There is no marked itinerary that we measure, only 6.0 kilometres of black, 20 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, and we do not tag it expert. The skiing tops out at 2,691 metres by our measure, 231 below yours. Our read on it is traditional and quiet, an old Savoyard village that is best for an authentic week and good food. For an Andermatt regular who mostly stays on the piste, that is a fair swap.

If you only try one
Val d'Isère

Andermatt's regulars go for the off piste and the snow, and Val d'Isère has more marked itinerary, 100 percent of the piste we measure at or above 1,800 metres and a village 406 metres higher, with a similar steep share and the same expert label. Go knowing it is lively, upmarket and long since discovered, the opposite of a sleeper. If the off piste is the whole point and you would rather have a town, go to Chamonix.

Resorts like Andermatt in France, measured | Ski Snug