Love Engelberg? Where to go next for the steep, the freeride or the long season

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20268 min read

Engelberg is not a resort anyone books for the piste map. Our one line on it is big vertical and serious freeride near Lucerne, and the list of what it does best reads off piste, glacier, freeride. We class it as expert, our read on it is down to earth and snowy, and the season runs from December into May.

So the people who love it love a particular kind of week, and even then not quite the same one. For some it is the stiff reds and the long drop from a low village. For some it is the glacier and a season that runs into May. For others it is what lies off the piste, the Laub and the Steintäli, which none of our piste figures counts. Which of those is yours decides where you go next.

If it is…Then…What you tradeGo to the section
If it is…The steep, and more of itThen…ArgentièreYou tradeMost of the gentle ground, and Zurich
If it is…The freeride, without leaving SwitzerlandThen…AndermattYou tradeMay, and some of the drop
If it is…The glacier and the long season, on more pisteThen…SöldenYou tradeThe marked off piste, and the down to earth feel
If it is…The off piste, with a long Italian lunchThen…CourmayeurYou tradeMay, and 289 metres at the top

Engelberg, measured

Your benchmark
Village1,000 m, the lowest of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover
Top of the skiing, measured3,004 m
Ski areaEngelberg-Titlis: 70 km on the Titlis, 82 km on the pass with Brunni, across the valley by ski bus
Piste we measure around Engelberg46 km; only two of the 55 resorts we cover have less
Green and blue19.6 km, 43% of that piste
Black4.5 km
Marked off piste itinerary1.8 km
Piste steeper than one in four31%, the most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, against 26% at a typical resort we cover
Piste gentler than 15%38%
Piste at or above 1,800 m53%
SeasonDecember to May
Nearest airportZurich

Read that table with four things in mind.

The drop. From a village at 1,000 metres, the skiing climbs to 3,004 by our measure, and from the highest piste we measure to the lowest is 1,997 metres of height. That is what big vertical means on the ground, and it is why a small mountain can fill a week.

The size, which undersells it. The 70 kilometres quoted for Engelberg-Titlis is the Titlis alone. Brunni faces it across the valley with no lift between them, a free ski bus does the crossing, and the pass comes to 82. None of those figures counts the Laub or the Steintäli. Rank Engelberg on its piste and you undersell it badly.

An odd shape on the piste. Its reds average 24.0 percent, the steepest of any Swiss resort we cover, against 19.9 for a typical Swiss red. Yet the blues average 13.2 percent, gentler than the Swiss 15.0, 38 percent of the piste is gentler than 15 percent, and there are only 4.5 kilometres of black. Gentle blues, stiff reds, not much black. Those are averages per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch, but the pattern is plain.

The snow, which is sure but only just. On our measure Engelberg is snow sure: 53 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 3,004 metres. That clears the half way line by three points, because the piste runs all the way down to a low village. What height it has is at the top.

So "somewhere like Engelberg" means a big drop from a low base, a glacier and a long season, stiff reds, and off piste worth taking a guide for. None of the picks has all of it. Each route keeps the part you care about most.

France

Argentière: if it is the steep, turned up

VillageVillage
1,252 m
Highest liftTop lift
3,275 m
Piste we measure around the village44 km

Argentière: 44 km of piste we measure. 13 km green and blue 30%16 km red 37%15 km black 33%

Plus 9 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

Argentière is the serious skier's corner of the Chamonix valley, low key and serious by our read, with experts and off piste first on its list. We class it as expert and quiet, and its season is the same December to May.

Then it turns everything up. Fifty nine percent of its piste is steeper than one in four, the biggest share of all 55 resorts we cover and nearly twice Engelberg's 31. Its reds average 28.9 percent, the second steepest of the 55, against 24.0 at Engelberg and 24.3 for a typical French red. Even the blues, at 18.4 percent, are the third steepest of the 55. There are 14.7 kilometres of black against 4.5, more than three times as much, and 9.0 kilometres of marked itinerary against 1.8. The split is the most even of the 55: 30 percent easy, 37 red and 33 black.

It goes higher, too. The village is at 1,252 metres, 252 above Engelberg's, and the skiing reaches 3,222 metres by our measure, 218 higher, with 2,163 metres from the top of the piste to the bottom. Eighty three percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against 53, so on our measure it is snow sure. One caution: the top of the piste we measure sits above the highest lift in our map, at 2,757 metres, and the call leans on it.

The trade is the easy ground. Only 17 percent of Argentière's piste is gentler than 15 percent, the second smallest share of the 55 we cover, against Engelberg's 38, so the gentle blues a mixed group leans on have no real equivalent here. It is no bigger, either: we measure 44 kilometres of piste, and only one of the 55 has less. Its ski area is not yet classified in our data, so we quote no size. And you fly to Geneva rather than Zurich.

Switzerland · Andermatt Sedrun Disentis

Andermatt: if it is the freeride, and staying in Switzerland

VillageVillage
1,444 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,961 m
Linked areaLinked
180 km
Piste we measure around the village61 km

Andermatt: 61 km of piste we measure. 27 km blue and easier 44%26 km red 43%8 km black 14%

Plus 21 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

You fly to Zurich for Andermatt too, and it keeps the expert label we give Engelberg. Our one line is a snowy sleeper resort in the middle of Switzerland; our read is reborn and snowy, with off piste, snowfall and up and coming on its list.

What it adds is marked off piste. Andermatt has 21 kilometres of marked itinerary, against Engelberg's 1.8, and its longest, the Guspis-Route, runs 5.5 kilometres with 1,170 metres of descent. It is not the Laub, but it is a great deal more off piste with a marker on it.

It keeps more of its piste up high. The village is at 1,444 metres, 444 above Engelberg's, and 76 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against 53, up to 2,922 metres: snow sure on our measure, with room to spare. The area is one linked domain of 180 kilometres including Disentis, though the Gemsstock sits outside it, and we measure 61 kilometres around the village, against 46.

The trade is the drop and the season. From the top of the piste we measure to the bottom is 1,488 metres, against 1,997; the top is 82 metres lower, and the season ends in April. It is a shade less steep, too: 27 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, the second most of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, behind Engelberg's 31, and the reds average 22.0 percent against your 24.0.

Austria

Sölden: if it is the glacier and the long season

VillageVillage
1,368 m
Highest liftTop lift
3,340 m
Piste we measure around the village135 km

Sölden: 135 km of piste we measure. 77 km blue and easier 57%40 km red 29%19 km black 14%

If what you love is skiing high and late, Sölden has more of it. Our one line is two glaciers and a serious top height. The skiing reaches 3,306 metres by our measure, the highest of the 13 Austrian resorts we cover and fifth of the 55, 302 above Engelberg's, and the season runs from late November to May, starting earlier and finishing as late. Eighty nine percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against 53, so it is snow sure on our measure.

It is a far bigger week on the piste. We measure 135 kilometres around Sölden, nearly three times Engelberg's 46; its area is not classified in our data, so that is the figure to plan on. There are 19 kilometres of black against 4.5, the steep share is nearly level, 30 percent against 31, and the reds average 23.7 percent against your 24.0, so the stiff reds come with you. The gentle blues do not: they average 17.3 percent against 13.2, and 26 percent of the piste is gentler than 15 percent, against 38.

The trade is the off piste and the mood. Sölden has no marked itinerary at all in our data, and nightlife sits on its list of what it does best. Our read is sporty and lively, where Engelberg is down to earth. The village is at 1,368 metres, 368 above yours, and you fly to Innsbruck.

Italy · Courmayeur

Courmayeur: if it is the off piste, and a long Italian lunch

VillageVillage
1,224 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,755 m
Linked areaLinked
42 km
Piste we measure around the village42 km

Courmayeur: 42 km of piste we measure. 16 km blue and easier 38%22 km red 51%4.6 km black 11%

Our matching puts Courmayeur closer to Engelberg than any other resort we cover. It is the Italian side of Mont Blanc, made for lunch by our one line, chic and welcoming by our read, with off piste on its list. We class it as expert, as we do Engelberg, and upmarket, which we do not.

On the mountain the match is close. Thirty two percent of its piste is steeper than one in four, against 31. Its reds average 24.3 percent, the steepest of the 10 Italian resorts we cover, where a typical Italian red is 20.4, so the stiff reds travel. Its blacks average 36.4 percent, the fourth steepest of the 55. And it is small on piste in the same way: we measure 42 kilometres, the least of the 55 resorts we cover. The resort's own 100 kilometres is, in its own wording, groomed slopes and off piste. More of it sits high, too: 72 percent of the piste we measure is at or above 1,800 metres, against 53, snow sure on our measure, up to 2,715 metres.

The trade is the top and the end of the season. The skiing stops 289 metres lower than Engelberg's, and the season ends in April. What you gain is the lunch, and for some groups that settles it.

So, which one

Choose Argentière if

the steep is the point of the week, you want it higher and harder, and nobody in the group needs a gentle run.

Choose Andermatt if

you want more marked off piste and a higher village, from the same airport, and can live without May.

Choose Sölden if

the glacier and the long season matter most, you would like nearly three times the piste, and livelier evenings and no marked itinerary do not put you off.

Choose Courmayeur if

you want the same small, steep mountain with a long Italian lunch in the middle of the day.

If you are still stuck
Argentière

It keeps the season to May and the serious feel of an expert's mountain, then adds height, a far bigger share of piste above 1,800 metres and the biggest share of steep piste we measure. It is no bigger, and its blues will not hold a nervous skier's hand. For anyone who loved Engelberg for the skiing, that is no loss at all.

Resorts like Engelberg: where to go next | Ski Snug