Love Courmayeur? Where to go next for the off piste, the long lunch or the polish

The Ski Snug teamUpdated 12 October 20267 min read

Courmayeur is the Italian side of Mont Blanc, and it does two things that rarely come together. Down in the town it is stone streets, an aperitivo on the Via Roma and a lunch that turns out to be the point of the day. Up on the mountain, with a guide, it is serious off piste under the highest peak in western Europe. People who love it tend to love one half more than the other, and almost nobody loves it for the size of the piste.

So where to go next depends on which Courmayeur you go to.

If it is…Then…What you tradeGo to the section
If it is…The off piste under a big mountainThen…EngelbergYou tradeThe Italian style
If it is…The town and the long lunchThen…Cortina d'Ampezzo, or BormioYou tradeThe off piste, and Mont Blanc
If it is…The polish and the off piste, in AustriaThen…ZürsYou tradeThe town, and Italy at lunchtime

Courmayeur, measured

Your benchmark
Village1,224 m
Top of the skiing, measured2,715 m
Ski area41.5 km of piste, as measured by skiresort.com; the published 100 km includes off piste
Piste we measure42 km, the least of the 55 resorts we cover
Blue and easier16 km, 38% of that piste
Black4.6 km
Marked off piste itinerary3.3 km
Piste steeper than one in four32%, against 26% at the median resort we cover
Piste at or above 1,800 m72%
SeasonDecember to April
Nearest airportsGeneva or Turin

Two things on that table explain the whole place.

The piste is the smallest we measure. Courmayeur publishes 100 kilometres, and in its own words that figure is groomed slopes and off piste together. Measured by skiresort.com, the piste comes to 41.5 kilometres, and our own measurement, 42, is the least of the 55 resorts we cover. That is not a complaint. It is the shape of Courmayeur: a compact ski area above a town, with the big terrain off the piste and up the Skyway, which no piste figure counts. It also makes the next resort easy to find on size, because every other resort we cover has more piste.

And what piste there is, is steep. Thirty two percent of it is steeper than one in four, against 26 at the median resort we cover. The reds average 24.3 percent, the steepest of the 10 Italian resorts we cover and well above a typical Italian red at 20.4, and the blacks average 36.4, the fourth steepest of the 55 resorts we cover. Those are average gradients per run segment, and a run's grade is set by its steepest pitch. But a red at Courmayeur is not the red you know from most of Italy.

Altitude is not what you would be fixing. Seventy two percent of the piste is at or above 1,800 metres, up to 2,715, measured, so it is snow sure on our own test.

Switzerland · Titlis

Engelberg: if it is the off piste under a big mountain

VillageVillage
1,000 m
Highest liftTop lift
3,028 m
Linked areaLinked
70 km
Piste we measure around the village46 km

Engelberg: 46 km of piste we measure. 20 km green and blue 43%22 km red 48%4.5 km black 10%

Engelberg is the closest match to Courmayeur we measure, anywhere, and it is the one to choose if the off piste is why you book. It sits near Lucerne under the Titlis glacier, with big vertical and serious freeride, and we class both resorts as expert. Its reputation rests on descents like the Laub, which, like Courmayeur's guided glacier days, sit outside every piste figure on this page.

On the piste the two are uncannily close. We measure 46 kilometres around Engelberg against Courmayeur's 42, and 31 percent of it is steeper than one in four, against 32. Its reds average 24.0 percent, the steepest reds of the 15 Swiss resorts we cover, against Courmayeur's 24.3. Grade labels do not travel across borders, but here the measured gradients agree: a red is a red in both places.

The skiing goes higher, to 3,004 metres, measured, against Courmayeur's 2,715, and the season runs on into May. The village is lower, at 1,000 metres, 224 below Courmayeur's, and only 53 percent of the piste is at or above 1,800 metres, against 72. The high top still makes it snow sure on our test. The published figure for the Titlis side is 70 kilometres, and Brunni faces it from the other side of the valley, joined by a free ski bus, not a lift.

The trade is the style. Engelberg is down to earth and snowy, and we do not class it as upmarket. Go for the mountain and the guide, and do not go looking for the Via Roma.

Italy

Cortina d'Ampezzo: if it is the town and the long lunch

VillageVillage
1,224 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,939 m
Piste we measure around the village86 km

Cortina d'Ampezzo: 86 km of piste we measure. 38 km blue and easier 45%38 km red 45%9 km black 11%

Plus 9 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

If it is the Italian half you love, the style, the aperitivo and a lunch that takes the afternoon, stay in Italy and head east to the Dolomites. Cortina d'Ampezzo is stylish and scenic, long lunches are on the list of what it does best, and we class both resorts as upmarket. Its village sits at 1,224 metres, exactly Courmayeur's height.

Above the village, almost everything gets bigger. Cortina's lifts reach 3,028 metres, measured, 313 above Courmayeur's top, though the highest piste we measure there is at 2,724 metres, only nine above Courmayeur's 2,715. Sixty seven percent of Cortina's piste is at or above 1,800 metres and that piste top clears our 2,500 metre line, so it is snow sure on our test. We measure 86 kilometres of piste around the town, twice Courmayeur's 42, with 38 kilometres of blue and easier against 16. And it is gentler: 25 percent of the piste is steeper than one in four, against 32, and the reds average 21.9 percent against 24.3. For a mixed group, that is the difference between lapping the same few runs and having somewhere new to go each day.

The trade is the off piste, and Mont Blanc. On marked itinerary Cortina actually has more, 9 kilometres against 3.3, but Courmayeur's off piste is the big guided terrain under the massif, and we class Courmayeur as expert and Cortina not. The blacks are a little less steep, 32.5 percent on average against 36.4, though there are more of them, 9 kilometres against 4.6.

Austria

Zürs: if it is the polish and the off piste, in Austria

VillageVillage
1,720 m
Highest liftTop lift
2,811 m
Piste we measure around the village75 km

Zürs: 75 km of piste we measure. 31 km blue and easier 42%38 km red 50%6 km black 8%

Plus 40 km of marked off piste itinerary, kept out of the piste total.

Zürs is the route that keeps both halves of Courmayeur's character, the polish and the appetite for off piste. It is a tiny, exclusive corner of the Arlberg, quiet and upmarket, and it has 40 kilometres of marked off piste itinerary, the fourth most of the 55 resorts we cover, against Courmayeur's 3.3. The village is high, at 1,720 metres, 496 above Courmayeur's, and 74 percent of the piste is at or above 1,800 metres.

The piste will feel familiar. We measure 75 kilometres around Zürs against Courmayeur's 42, with 33 percent of it steeper than one in four against 32, and its reds average 24.2 percent against 24.3. Austrian and Italian grades do not usually line up, which makes that match worth knowing. The Arlberg as a whole reaches further, but its size is not yet classified in our data, so we compare on what we measure around the village.

The trade is the town and the top. Zürs is a tiny, quiet village, so the evening stroll down the Via Roma does not come with you, and its skiing tops out at 2,440 metres, measured, 275 below Courmayeur's. And you give up Italy, with everything that means at lunchtime.

So, which one

Choose Engelberg if

the off piste is the point, and you would swap Italian style for a big Swiss mountain and a season into May.

it is the town and the lunch, and you would like twice the piste and a gentler mountain under it.

Bormio if you want the town and the spa, and the steep piste too.

Choose Zürs if

you want the polish and the off piste together, and can give up the town and some height at the top.

If you are still stuck
Cortina d'Ampezzo

It keeps what most people book Courmayeur for, an Italian town at the same height, the style and the long lunch, and gives you more of everything on the piste. What you give up is Mont Blanc, and the off piste that comes with it.

Resorts like Courmayeur: where to go next | Ski Snug